Ever since I was in elementary school when I learned the phrase, “That hand is a Kuwana baked clam,” I’ve been meaning to try a Kuwana baked clam someday, and the time has come!
Miya-juku
In the Edo period, this would be the day to cross the 7-ri ferry to Kuwana. However, the ferry is no longer in operation. So, I had to walk along the Saya Road, a detour of the Tokaido Highway. I had to walk about 50 km to Kuwana, so I left the hotel a little after 5:00.
Tenmacho Ichirizuka
Near Tenmacho Ichirizuka (89 ri), there was a place that looked strangely like Ichirizuka, but was not marked as such. I had no choice but to ask the locals, and they told me that it was indeed an Ichirizuka. I thought it would be nice if there was some kind of indication.
A signpost at the junction of the Tokaido and Saya Roads
I came to the junction of the Tokaido and Saya roads. I wanted to see the remains of the ferry landing, so I turned left (south).
There is a pedestrian bridge on Route 247 for crossing. However, as if to say that they don’t want people to pass by it, the way up and down is deliberately designed to be a detour. I wondered why this was so, since people from the Tokaido Highway heading to the site of the ferry terminal would pass through this pedestrian bridge, and it would be used by many people.
The ruins of the Shichiri no Ferry landing
I arrived at the site of the Shichiri no Ferry landing just before 7:00. I was deeply moved for a while.
Oiwake of Tokaido and Saya Roads
Return to the Oiwake (junction) of the Tokaido and Saya Kaido.
The road that turns from the right to the front is the Tokaido. The Saya Kaido begins on the other side from here. The Atsuta Shrine can be seen in the distance.
Atsuta Shrine
I visited the Atsuta Shrine, a large shrine dedicated to Amenomurakumonotsurugi, which has a solemn atmosphere.
Junction of Saya Road and Mino Road
After passing the marker stone indicating the junction of Saya Road and Mino Road, I finally entered the Saya Road.
Iwatsuka-juku
Ruins of Gonyoshi Ichirizuka
Ruins of Iwatsuka Ichirizuka
The ruins of Gonyoshi Ichirizuka and Iwatsuka Ichirizuka both had signs embedded in the road.
Shonai River seen from Manba Bridge
We cross the Shonai River at the Manba Bridge. Up to here is Iwatsuka-juku and from here is Manba-juku.
Manba-juku
Stone monument of cloisonne ware origin
The stone monument of Cloisonne ware’s place of origin has Roman letters and hand shapes written on it, which is quite modern for a place built in 1895. The name of the town was changed to Shippo-cho (town of cloisonne) because of the prosperity of cloisonne ware.
Kamori-juku
Turtle by the side of the road
There are numerous turtles in the rivers and lakes beside the streets. Like parent turtles and hatchlings, they really do sometimes ride on the shells of other turtles. When you approach them, they jump into the water with a dobong-bong. If they are afraid of people, does that mean there are people who will attack them?
Saya-juku
Site of Saya Sanri no Watashi
We came to the site of Saya Sanri no Watashi. In the old days, there was a 3 ri ferry from here to Kuwana. Since it was a river ferry, it was less prone to seasickness than the 7-ri ferry on the sea, so it was often used.
Owari Bridge
I crossed the Owari Bridge over the Kiso River and entered Mie Prefecture from Aichi Prefecture.
Estuary weir of the Nagara River
The estuary weir of the Nagara River is very conspicuous from afar because of its odd shape. The estuary weir starts from the premises of Aqua Plaza Nagara. I was nervous because it would be trespassing if I went in without permission.
On the side of the estuary weir, there is a fishway observation room. When I visited, I saw small shrimps and mussels, but no fish.
View of the Shichiri ferry landing from the Nagara River estuary weir
This is a view from the top of the estuary weir, looking at the remains of the Shichiri no Ferry point on the Kuwana side. The distance is about 1.4 km in a straight line, and it was not clear to the naked eye.
Ise Bridge
I crossed the Ibi River on the Ise Bridge. This area is surrounded by a dike and is called Wajyu.
Kuwana-juku
Ruins of the Shichiri no Ferry landing in Kuwana
The ruins of the Shichiri no Ferry landing in Kuwana are modern, with a concrete seawall.
The First Torii Gate at Ise Grand Shrine
When I turned to the west from the remains of the ferry, I saw the first torii gate of the Ise Shrine, so I worshipped there.
I can’t find any hotels near the ferry terminal. So I booked the Super Hotel in front of Kuwana Station via the Internet.
Hamaguri Shokudo
Next to the hotel is the “Hamaguri Shokudo” where you can eat clams at reasonable prices.
Clam set
I took a seat and ordered the clam set, which came out in less than 10 minutes. The baked clam, soup, and fries were all very tasty.
Walking data
Course: Miya-juku -> Iwatsuka-juku -> Manba-juku -> Kamori-juku -> Saya-juku -> Kuwana-juku
Distance: 49.6km
Time: 12h23m
