Hakone Road is fun to walk, with its ups and downs and great scenery.
The most impressive part was the tunnel made of bamboo grass at Kabutoishizaka. I felt like I was being transported to another dimension.
Hakone-juku
I left the “Oba” guest house in Moto Hakone before 05:30. From today onward, I will follow the strategy of the travelers of old, leaving early in the morning and arriving at the inn before nightfall.
Mt. Fuji and the Torii Gate of Peace at Hakone Shrine
Mt. Fuji was visible near Lake Ashinoko. Mt. Fuji and the Peaceful Torii Gate of Hakone Shrine, creating a wonderful contrast. Mt. Fuji, reflected dimly in the lake through the trees.
A row of cedar trees at Hakone-juku
When I was walking along the roadway, I didn’t notice the junction with the old road and passed it by, so I went back about 100 meters and retraced my steps to find a magnificent row of cedar trees. I was surprised that there was such a place where I could enjoy such a sentiment by Lake Ashinoko. The Ichirizuka in Yoshiwara Kubo should be nearby, but I couldn’t find it.
Hakone barrier
The gate of the Hakone barrier is now in sight. It is indeed majestic. Travelers in the past must have been very nervous going down this slope.
Hakone Ekiden outward goal
Start of the return leg of the Hakone Ekiden
About 500 meters past the barrier, there is a road leading to the goal of the Hakone Ekiden, so we decided to take a detour. On the opposite side of the outward goal is the start of the return route. It’s a natural thing to think about, but it was a bit refreshing.
Kabukimon Gate near Hakone Pass
About an hour and a half after I left, I crossed the Hakone Pass and entered Shizuoka Prefecture. On the map, Kanagawa Prefecture looks relatively small, but when I walked through it, I found it to be quite long.
Kabutoishizaka
Less than a kilometer from Hakone Pass, we parted ways with the roadway, which soon became Kabutoishizaka. As we stepped onto Kabutoishizaka, we discovered that it was a tunnel of bamboo grass!
It seems to be a gateway to another dimension. I wonder if it has been this way since the time of the warlords.
Yamanaka-Shinden
Continuing down the slope in the forest for about 2km, I came to Yamanaka-Shinden. The climate is mild, and you can walk very comfortably. It’s almost as if the heaven is a place like this.
Mishima-juku
I passed people and groups walking along the Tokaido Highway as we passed through the cobblestone streets and onto the paved road. It was Sunday and the weather was perfect for a hike.
Nishikida Ichirizuka
About a kilometer before meeting the Tokaido Line again, I found Nishikida Ichirizuka!
The mound was located in the middle of a row of pine trees, and was aligned on both sides. Well done! Nishikida-isarizuka is, of course, a designated national historic site.
Mishima Taisha Shrine
We reached the front of Mishima Taisha Shrine a little after 10:30. I took a picture from an angle similar to Hiroshige’s painting.
Eel for lunch
For lunch, we decided on Mishima’s famous eel. However, the eel was overcooked to the point of being charred, and the guts in the soup were too salty for me. After all, I like my eel plump and soft.
Ichirizuka at Tamaiji Temple
A little before noon, I passed the Ichirizuka (29 ri) of Gyokuseiji Temple. The pairing of the two mounds at Hochiji Temple was renovated in 1985, but the one at Tamaiji Temple is said to be in its original state.
Face-to-Face Stone
We took a detour of about 200 meters from the Tokaido Highway to visit the Face-to-Face Stone, where Yoritomo and Yoshitsune are said to have sat.
Although Yoritomo and Yoshitsune were people from long ago, the stone looks like an ordinary stone, which reminds us of the transience of life.
Numazu-juku
Numazu Hie Ichirizuka and Jade Stone
Fifty-two minutes after Tamaiji Ichirizuka, we found Numazu Hie Ichirizuka (30 ri).
In front of the Ichirizuka, there was a jade whetstone, which is said to have been used to polish jade 1200 to 1300 years ago. However, no other jade whetstone has been found in Shizuoka Prefecture, and although it is considered to be valuable, there are many unknowns.
Stone walls of the outer moat of Sanmaibashi Castle
The stone walls of the outer moat of Sanmaibashi Castle were piled up in front of the Numazu Riverside Hotel. Sanmaibashi Castle was built by Takeda Katsuyori. I thought Takeda’s influence was only in Yamanashi, but it extended to Shizuoka as well.
Matsunaga Ichirizuka
After two o’clock, we passed Matsunaga Ichirizuka (31 ri). The road around here is monotonous and there is not much to see.
Hara-juku
I arrived at Tagonoura a little after four o’clock. I decided to take a detour and go to the sea.
Seaward view at Tagonoura
View of the mountain side of Tagonoura
This is the view from the top of the 17-meter breakwater, looking at the ocean and mountain sides. The weather was fine and the view was good.
It reminds me of a poem by one hundred poets. “If you go out to Tagonoura and look, the snow is falling on the high peak of white Fuji.”
Yoshiwara-juku
Level crossing just before Yoshiwara Station
I arrived in Yoshiwara a little after five o’clock. There are two business hotels near the station. I visited the first one first. The door was locked and no one answered when I pressed the doorbell. I tried to call, but it was an answering machine.
I visited the other “Okamura”. As expected, the door was locked. There was no doorbell, so I tried to call.
They refused me at once, saying that they were fully booked, even though there seemed to be no one in the hotel. However, I was desperate because if I couldn’t stay here, I would have to walk for a while longer or stay in the field.” I told him, “I’m in front of the hotel right now, but I’m having trouble getting in touch with the other hotels. Then they told me that due to circumstances, they were not planning to take any guests that day, but in the end they let me stay there without any problem. I really appreciate it. Thank you so much.
Walking data
Course: Hakone-juku → Mishima-juku → Numazu-juku → Harajuku → Yoshiwara-juku
Distance: 46.7km
Time: 13h57m
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