Eating specialties is one of the pleasures of walking along the highway.
Today, I ate Abekawa Mochi and Tororojiru.
Ejiri-juku
I left before 6:00. The back of my neck is burning in the sun. But the sun was mild and the sky was cloudy, which was a big help.
To deal with the blisters at the base of my index toes, I applied two layers of adhesive bandages. It worked well and I don’t feel the pain anymore.
I crossed the Chigo Bridge, where kappa were said to have started crossing.
The elementary school near the Chigo Bridge was the old Ejiri Castle, built by Takeda Shingen. Furthermore, I heard that there are two soccer shrines near there, the Koshiba Hachimangu Shrine and the Uomachi Inari Shrine. What kind of gods are enshrined there as soccer gods?
I found Kusanagi Ichirizuka (43 ri), the place where Yamato-Takeru-no-Mikoto used the Kusanagi sword, one of the three sacred treasures, to cut the grass when he was surrounded by flames. For Kanto people, mythology is a story of another world, but when it is connected to the names of real places, it feels familiar.
Fuchu-juku
The Tokaido Highway is divided by the Tokaido Main Line east of Higashi Shizuoka Station. A monument to the old Tokaido Highway stood at this spot.
There is a Kitamura underpass by the monument that serves as a detour. It’s a narrow place, but it’s dangerous because cars also pass through.
I arrived at Abekawa before 10:00. Fortunately, Sekibeya, an old shop of Abekawa Mochi (rice cake), is open.
I ordered the sweet rice cake, Abekawa Mochi (600 yen). There was no sweetness in the kinako (soybean flour), so I had to mix my own sugar to adjust the taste. Incidentally, the spicy mochi is said to be karami mochi.
Sekibeya was founded in 1804, the first year of Bunka era (1804).
Crossing the Abe River. In the Edo period, the crossing was done on foot.
Mariko-juku
I arrived at Marikojuku before 11:00. There was a handmade sign, which showed the enthusiasm of the locals.
However, the remains of Mariko Ichirizuka (46 ri) stood quietly. It was used to fix a signboard for construction, so I hope they will treat it with more care.
I found a yam soup shop called Chojiya, something I had been looking forward to since before the trip! It was located at the very end of the juku, just like Hiroshige’s painting. I decided to have lunch here.
From the outside, Chojiya looked small, but the back of the building was spacious and could hold about 200 people.
I ordered a set meal called “Mariko”. It didn’t have any special taste. However, it is meaningful to eat at Mariko. The interior, rice tubs, and ladles give a nice atmosphere that makes me feel like I’m traveling.
Turning right at Roadside Station Utsunoya Pass, I entered the village of Utsunoya. The streets are lined with old houses that look like they could be used as a set for a period drama. If you are able to drive close to the village, you can park your car at the roadside station and enjoy the feeling of walking along the street.
This is Utsunoya Pass. There was no signboard in the area. There was no one in the vicinity.
Okabe-juku
A little after two o’clock, I passed by the Kashiwaya Inn. Kashiwaya is a history museum that tells the story of Okabe-juku. There were realistic dolls, and I was very interested. However, I decided to hurry ahead. I would like to visit this museum someday.
I found the bridge where Ono no Komachi saw herself. I had thought that Ono no Komachi was from the Tohoku region, so I was surprised to find a place associated with her in Shizuoka Prefecture. It is said that in her later years, Ono no Komachi was saddened by her reflection in the water. I also tried to reflect myself in the water, but it didn’t look good to begin with, so I didn’t lament over my old age.
I passed Onijima Ichirizuka (49 ri). I wonder if the sign post was built by a resident of this area. It has a tasteful font.
Fujieda-juku
We reached the Toiyaba site in Fujieda a little after four o’clock. I was expecting to see some of the atmosphere of Hiroshige’s painting. However, I was disappointed to find that it had been turned into a police box and a parking lot, and there was no atmosphere left at all.
I heard that there was a big tree called Hongan no Matsu at Shojoji Temple, so I took a detour there. It is indeed a magnificent pine tree. I was reminded of the power and splendor of large trees.
I found the remains of Shida Ichirizuka! Finally, I reached 50 ri. But the sun was starting to set, so I had to find a place to stay for the day.
The tourist information center at Fujieda Station seemed to still be open, so I walked about 800 meters to the station, where I was introduced to the Ogawa Hotel.
The Ogawa Hotel had a coin-operated laundry, so I washed my clothes. However, the dryer only warmed up the clothes and made them fresh and dry.
Walking data
Course: Ejiri-juku -> Fuchu-juku -> Maruko-juku -> Okabejuku -> Fujieda-juku
Distance: 40.9km
Time: 12h51m




















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