The Edo period seems like a long time ago. But the shapes of mountains do not change in a mere few hundred years. Komayama at the Hiratsuka inn was exactly as I saw it in Hiroshige’s ukiyoe.
Fujisawa-juku
To walk from Yugyoji Bridge, I get off at Fujisawa Station.
After a day of walking, the cost of transportation is going up by 500 yen each way. That’s how far I’m getting away from home, and how steadily I’m getting closer to Kyoto.
Iseyama Bridge
I cross the Odakyu Enoshima Line at the Iseyama Bridge. Fujisawa-honmachi Station can be seen below. This is not a level crossing, so it must have been dug down to allow the tracks to pass through. Is it for noise control?
Rows of pine trees
As I crossed the Hikichi River, the rows of pine trees began to appear. It looks just like a highway.
Tsujido Ichirizuka
I found the remains of Tsujido Ichirizuka (13 ri)! It was on the other side of the road, but I was able to take a picture.
Hiratsuka-juku
Chigasaki Ichirizuka
Next, I found the Chigasaki Ichirizuka (14 ri). Although it was near the station, the mound was still intact and the place was calm.
Monument of Left Fuji in South Lake
I came to the left Fuji point at South Lake. Unfortunately, I couldn’t see Mt. Fuji because it was covered with a thick layer of gas.
National Historic Site, Old Sagami River Bridge Pier
On the banks of the Koide River, I found the piers of the old Sagami River, a designated national historic site. It seems that the main stream of the Sagami River used to flow near the Koide River.
Banyu Bridge
The present-day Sagami River is 1.5 km west of the historic site of the bridge piers. The Sagami River is also called the Banyu River, and the name of this bridge is Banyu Bridge.
In the Tokaido Chu Hizakurige, it is written that the Bairu River was crossed by a ferry, and it is also written that this river flows from the Saruhashi Bridge in Kai.
Edo-mitsuke of Hiratsuka-juku
Just past the deserted shopping district of Hiratsuka Station, there was the Edo-mitsuke of Hiratsuka-juku. Mitsuke means “castle gate,” and it was a defensive facility. But how much defense did such a small stone wall provide?
Komayama
At the end of Hiratsuka, I found Komayama! It was just like the image of Komayama that Hiroshige painted, and I suddenly felt closer to Hiroshige, a man who lived more than 150 years ago.
Ooiso-juku
Kewai-zaka Ichirizuka
I found the Ichirizuka (16 ri) on Kewai-zaka! There is no actual mound left, but there is a signboard with multi-colored printing, which shows that they are putting a lot of effort into tourism.
Underground passage through the Tokaido Line
About 800 meters before Oiso Station, I passed under the Tokaido Main Line. It seems that the old Tokaido highway is respected even if it had to pass through thick roads and railroad tracks, and usually such underground passages or overpasses are built.
Shigitatsu-an
This is the Shigitatsu-an. It was built in honor of Saigyo’s poem, “Even a man without a heart can feel a deep sense of compassion when he sees the autumn dusk of a stream where a sandpiper is flying.” It was a very elegant place.
Former Residence of Hirobumi Ito
I pass by the former residence of Hirobumi Ito, the first Prime Minister of Japan. There was a time when it was a Chinese restaurant, but there seems to be no business there now. It’s the impermanence of things.
Ruins of Kokufu Hongo Ichirizuka
The remains of Kokubuhongo Ichirizuka (17 Ri) were embedded in the road.
It was getting close to dusk, so I decided to continue to Ninomiya on the third day. Again, my legs were very tired.
Walking data
Course: JR Tokaido Line Fujisawa Station -> Fujisawa-juku -> Hiratsuka-juku -> Oiso-juku -> JR Tokaido Line Ninomiya Station
Distance: 23.4km
Time: 6h44m
