Walking the Tokaido - Discover Mariko's Tororojiru Chojiya! | Ejiri - Fujieda

とろろ汁定食「丸子」 静岡県
とろろ汁定食「丸子」

Eating specialties is one of the pleasures of walking along the highway.

Today, I ate Abekawa Mochi and Tororojiru.

Ejiri-juku

I left before 6:00. The back of my neck is burning in the sun. But the sun was mild and the sky was cloudy, which was a big help.

To deal with the blisters at the base of my index toes, I applied two layers of adhesive bandages. It worked well and I don’t feel the pain anymore.

稚児橋

Chigo Bridge

I crossed the Chigo Bridge, where kappa were said to have started crossing.

The elementary school near the Chigo Bridge was the old Ejiri Castle, built by Takeda Shingen. Furthermore, I heard that there are two soccer shrines near there, the Koshiba Hachimangu Shrine and the Uomachi Inari Shrine. What kind of gods are enshrined there as soccer gods?

草薙一里塚

Kusanagi Ichirizuka

I found Kusanagi Ichirizuka (43 ri), the place where Yamato-Takeru-no-Mikoto used the Kusanagi sword, one of the three sacred treasures, to cut the grass when he was surrounded by flames. For Kanto people, mythology is a story of another world, but when it is connected to the names of real places, it feels familiar.

Fuchu-juku

旧東海道記念碑

Monument to the Old Tokaido Highway

The Tokaido Highway is divided by the Tokaido Main Line east of Higashi Shizuoka Station. A monument to the old Tokaido Highway stood at this spot.

北村地下道

Kitamura underpass

There is a Kitamura underpass by the monument that serves as a detour. It’s a narrow place, but it’s dangerous because cars also pass through.

石部屋

Sekibeya

I arrived at Abekawa before 10:00. Fortunately, Sekibeya, an old shop of Abekawa Mochi (rice cake), is open.

安倍川餅

Abekawa Mochi

I ordered the sweet rice cake, Abekawa Mochi (600 yen). There was no sweetness in the kinako (soybean flour), so I had to mix my own sugar to adjust the taste. Incidentally, the spicy mochi is said to be karami mochi.

Sekibeya was founded in 1804, the first year of Bunka era (1804).

安倍川

Abe River

Crossing the Abe River. In the Edo period, the crossing was done on foot.

Mariko-juku

丸子宿

Mariko-juku

I arrived at Marikojuku before 11:00. There was a handmade sign, which showed the enthusiasm of the locals.

丸子一里塚跡

Remains of Mariko Ichirizuka

However, the remains of Mariko Ichirizuka (46 ri) stood quietly. It was used to fix a signboard for construction, so I hope they will treat it with more care.

丁子屋

Chojiya

I found a yam soup shop called Chojiya, something I had been looking forward to since before the trip! It was located at the very end of the juku, just like Hiroshige’s painting. I decided to have lunch here.

From the outside, Chojiya looked small, but the back of the building was spacious and could hold about 200 people.

とろろ汁定食「丸子」

Tororojiru Set Meal “Mariko”

I ordered a set meal called “Mariko”. It didn’t have any special taste. However, it is meaningful to eat at Mariko. The interior, rice tubs, and ladles give a nice atmosphere that makes me feel like I’m traveling.

The village of Utsunoya

Turning right at Roadside Station Utsunoya Pass, I entered the village of Utsunoya. The streets are lined with old houses that look like they could be used as a set for a period drama. If you are able to drive close to the village, you can park your car at the roadside station and enjoy the feeling of walking along the street.

宇津ノ谷峠

Utsunoya Pass

This is Utsunoya Pass. There was no signboard in the area. There was no one in the vicinity.

Okabe-juku

大旅籠柏屋

Kashiwaya Inn

A little after two o’clock, I passed by the Kashiwaya Inn. Kashiwaya is a history museum that tells the story of Okabe-juku. There were realistic dolls, and I was very interested. However, I decided to hurry ahead. I would like to visit this museum someday.

小野小町の姿見の橋

The bridge where Ono no Komachi saw herself

I found the bridge where Ono no Komachi saw herself. I had thought that Ono no Komachi was from the Tohoku region, so I was surprised to find a place associated with her in Shizuoka Prefecture. It is said that in her later years, Ono no Komachi was saddened by her reflection in the water. I also tried to reflect myself in the water, but it didn’t look good to begin with, so I didn’t lament over my old age.

鬼島一里塚跡

Onijima Ichirizuka

I passed Onijima Ichirizuka (49 ri). I wonder if the sign post was built by a resident of this area. It has a tasteful font.

Fujieda-juku

藤枝問屋場跡

Toiyaba site in Fujieda

We reached the Toiyaba site in Fujieda a little after four o’clock. I was expecting to see some of the atmosphere of Hiroshige’s painting. However, I was disappointed to find that it had been turned into a police box and a parking lot, and there was no atmosphere left at all.

正定寺本願の松

Hongan no Matsu at Shojoji Temple

I heard that there was a big tree called Hongan no Matsu at Shojoji Temple, so I took a detour there. It is indeed a magnificent pine tree. I was reminded of the power and splendor of large trees.

志太一里塚蹟

Remains of Shida Ichirizuka

I found the remains of Shida Ichirizuka! Finally, I reached 50 ri. But the sun was starting to set, so I had to find a place to stay for the day.

The tourist information center at Fujieda Station seemed to still be open, so I walked about 800 meters to the station, where I was introduced to the Ogawa Hotel.

The Ogawa Hotel had a coin-operated laundry, so I washed my clothes. However, the dryer only warmed up the clothes and made them fresh and dry.

Walking data

Course: Ejiri-juku -> Fuchu-juku -> Maruko-juku -> Okabejuku -> Fujieda-juku
Distance: 40.9km
Time: 12h51m

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